First look at the new winter collections

Now is the clean-break fashion moment when the winter collections launch and our wardrobes beg for bit of a workout.

Christine Etro

Now is the clean-break fashion moment when the winter collections launch and our wardrobes beg for bit of a workout. It’s the time to bin all the unflattering excesses of yesterday’s fads and find some on-trend items that both refresh personal style and reflect our connection to contemporary culture. 

But as the fashion carousel spins ever faster and beauty blurs into the ubiquitous dross of design, it’s getting harder to differentiate ‘real’ luxury (as defined by beautifully made things that go the distance of life) from tomorrow’s landfill, which is why we want you to benefit from our insights and investments in the new season and find ‘keepers’ not clutter in the following key trends.

The one word that will define fashion moving forward is ‘graphic’ – in both print and proportion. It’s a direct response to the girly flounce of preceding seasons but also a measure of technology’s influence on our immediate world. Get used to aligning checks with stripes with big, bold florals and finding bi- and tri-colour blocked accessories to build up the busy mix.

Christine Etro

Céline Trapeze bag, and boots, Etro pants and shirt, Philip Treacy hat.

Etro is at the vanguard of this lyrical new dandyism with a lean-tailored Edwardian suiting that has side-tripped to the 1970’s – cropped kick-flare pants mismatch with wild paisley shirts (the label’s basic building block) worn under gold jacquard morning coats. It’s a look that recently sent fashion editors into meltdown and made that shimmering gold frock-coat the most desired acquisition of the season (we have snaffled only 3).

It’s a moment of maximalist minimalism (there’s that contradiction trend at work) and Phoebe Philo of Céline is its most formidable exponent. Yes, we have a waiting list for her ‘Luggage’ and ‘Trapeze’ totes – now in triple treat diamond blockings of white/cobalt/brown, white/red/brown and white/black/brown. But for all those women who want to drop their iPads and other techy accessories into a chic dossier size carry-all, we’d like to flag her fabulous new portfolio – an A4 size zip leather clutch in the season-defining colours of black or white.

Celine has also styled a mid-calf, mid-heel white boot that, featuring a centre-strip black zip, was used by all the fashion editors to balance the season’s sized-up man coats.

 

Swash shirt, pants and scarf, Lanvin sneakers, Philip Treacy hat, Stella McCartney bag.

Print on Print – Riffing on Etro’s ‘opposites attract’ aesthetic, print masters Swash have given graphic geometries a distinctly English edge with framed cameos of beloved canines and lots of forest-floor flowers and leaves. They have evolved their idiosyncratic silk scarves into a capsule collection of clothing that walks the tight-rope between classic and super-cool (contradiction is a big driver of current clothing trends). We love their ‘Borrowed from the Boyfriend’ bomber jackets and cardigans that combine conservative argyle-diamond sleeves with swathes of flower-patterned silk. Co-ordinate with one of their silk-fringed stoles worked into a wrap-around skirt worn over a pair of floral-print leggings for ‘wow’ inducing commentary.

 

Toni Maticevski dress, Celine boots, Lanvin choker, Philip Treacy hat.

New season Toni Maticevski is also stealing the show, with the elegant, edgy and feminine style which has become his calling card. We love his black sequin peplum mini as the perfect cocktail dress.